Frigidaire ranges fill the rental kitchens near Evergreen and the family kitchens of Wildwood alike, and their electronic oven control is talkative when something goes wrong.
Weekdays 7:30–5:30 · Saturday 9–1 · closed Sunday · Woodland Square Loop, at the Olympia–Lacey line
Every Frigidaire range built in the last twenty years puts an electronic oven control behind the clock, and that control both runs the oven and reports on it. When it flashes F10 it believes the oven has run away past its limit. F30 and F31 say the temperature probe has gone open or shorted. F11 is a key it thinks is stuck. F90 is a door lock that never reached position. Those codes begin our diagnosis rather than end it.
The rest of the Frigidaire work is mechanical and familiar: bake elements that burn through, gas oven igniters that weaken until the oven catches late or never, radiant elements and limiters under the smooth glass tops, and door hinges that sag after a decade of being leaned on in a busy household.
The oven runs hot, dinner scorches, and F10 flashes with an alarm that keeps going. On Frigidaire this is most often the probe drifting high or the control's bake relay sticking closed so the element stays powered. We measure the probe cold against the chart, test the relay output, and replace whichever has failed. Until then the breaker stays off.
The display shows F30 or F31 as soon as bake is selected, or the oven runs far off its set temperature without a code. The probe at the back of the cavity has gone open, shorted or drifted, or its connector behind the rear panel has corroded. We meter the probe, inspect the harness, and either fit a new sensor or remake the connection as the reading dictates.
F11 means the control detected a shorted or stuck key, and the oven beeps and refuses commands. On many Frigidaire models the touch overlay is bonded to the control, so the fix is the control assembly; on others the membrane switch is separate and cheaper. We disconnect the keypad ribbon to prove whether the fault is in the overlay or the board before we order anything.
Self-clean finishes, the door stays locked, and F90 appears. The lock motor drives a cam that a switch is supposed to see at each end; either the motor or the switch has failed, or the door was opened during lock travel. We release the door manually, check motor and switch, replace the assembly when it has failed, and confirm a full lock and unlock in a test cycle.
The gas oven needs several minutes before it lights, or the flame starts and drops out during preheat. The hot-surface igniter has aged and its current draw no longer opens the oven safety valve reliably. We measure the current, replace a weak igniter, and on propane houses around Summit Lake and Delphi confirm the oven orifice was converted, since the wrong orifice on propane gives a tall, sooty flame.
One radiant element on the glass top will not heat, or heats only at full, or the hot-surface indicator never turns off. The element, its attached limiter, and the infinite switch under the knob each produce one of these. We test element and limiter, check the switch contacts, and replace the failed part. A cracked top gets discussed honestly, since new glass is not always sensible on an older range.
| Code | What it usually means | What we do |
|---|---|---|
| F10 | The control detected a runaway oven temperature, in most cases a drifted probe or a heating relay stuck closed. | Meter the probe, test the relay output, and replace the failed part; the breaker stays off until then. |
| F30 / F31 | The oven temperature probe reads open (F30) or shorted (F31), or its connector has failed. | Test the probe against the chart, inspect the rear connector, and replace or repair as needed. |
| F11 | A key appears shorted or stuck to the control, usually the touch overlay or the control assembly. | Isolate the keypad from the board to find the fault, then replace only the part responsible. |
| F90 | The door lock did not reach its expected position during or after self-clean. | Release the door, check the motor and switch, and replace the lock assembly when confirmed. |
Diagnosing a Frigidaire range costs $99. That covers a technician and meter at the range, the failed part identified in plain terms, and a fixed repair figure written down before any part is ordered. Proceed, and that $99 is carried within the repair figure, not stacked on it; hold off, and $99 was the visit. Inside the ring we cover out from the Lacey line no mileage is added, and if Frigidaire still covers the range we tell you before spending a cent.
Ranges are scheduled inside the week. Probes, igniters, elements and locks ride with us; an electronic oven control may need ordering, and the trip to fit it is arranged by us with nothing added to your invoice. The printed warranty term is on the paperwork, and landlords near the college can okay work by text and have the invoice emailed.
Treat it as one until it is checked. F10 means the control saw a runaway temperature, and if the cause is a bake relay stuck closed, the element can stay on regardless of what the display says. Turn the breaker off and leave it off. If the cause turns out to be a drifted probe, the repair is simple and the oven is fine once it is replaced.
It is one of the more approachable repairs: two screws at the back of the cavity and a connector behind the rear panel. What trips people up is diagnosis, since a probe that meters correctly at room temperature can still drift when hot, and a relay fault looks identical from the kitchen. If you would rather have it confirmed first, that is what the diagnostic is for.
The infinite switch under that knob has burned its contacts and now passes either full power or none. It is a modest part, and we replace it. Occasionally the limiter on the element itself is the cause. Either way, an element that cannot be turned down is a burn and fire risk, so avoid using that burner until it is repaired.
Regularly, especially around Evergreen and in the Eastside duplexes. We arrange a time with the tenant, text the figure to whoever owns the place, and the invoice follows by email. Rental ranges take a beating, and we say plainly when one has reached the point where the next repair is not worth it, so the owner can plan rather than react.
Yes, and a worthwhile one, because a door that gaps loses heat and stresses the control. The hinges wear their springs and the roller pins, and the inner glass can shift after a slam. We replace the hinge pair and check the gasket. On self-clean models a gapping door also confuses the lock, which is where some F90 codes begin.
All Frigidaire machines → · Frigidaire refrigerator repair → · Oven, Range & Cooktop Repair in Olympia →
The price goes on paper before a screw comes out.
Ring or use the form; a phone photo of the display or the model sticker saves a step. We ring back with an arrival window and text again as the van pulls off Woodland Square Loop.
The technician tests the suspect part with instruments, tells you in plain words what gave out, and writes the repair down as a single price. Your $99 is already inside that number.
Fill valves, defrost heaters, igniters, drum rollers, drain pumps, relays — the things well water, salt air and PSE outages wear out on this shore of the inlet. If we have to order something, the second trip is ours to make, not yours to pay for.
You watch the machine finish a whole cycle, the kick panels and the floor go back the way they were, and the warranty term is typed onto the invoice.
Tell us over the phone. For $99 a technician tests the machine and writes the repair down as one price with that $99 folded in, and the invoice carries the warranty term in print.
