Bosch dishwashers are the quietest machines in most Olympia kitchens right up until the display shows E24 or E15 and the cycle refuses to continue. Both codes have sensible causes and a few less obvious ones.
Weekdays 7:30–5:30 · Saturday 9–1 · closed Sunday · Woodland Square Loop, at the Olympia–Lacey line
A Bosch dishwasher has a filter you are supposed to clean, a check valve you have never seen, a float in the base pan that halts everything at the first hint of a leak, and a heat pump doing the work of circulation pump and heater at once. Understand those four parts and you understand most of what goes wrong: E24 when the drain path is blocked, E15 when the float lifts, cold water and wet dishes when the heat pump fails.
Around Olympia, add water to that list. Private wells on Cooper Point and toward Steamboat Island leave scale on the element and grit in the inlet valve, and the septic systems those houses drain to make a proper air gap and drain loop matter more than downtown.
E24 on the panel, tub still holding water. We start at the filter basket, then the impeller cover under it where glass and olive pits hide, then the check valve in the sump and the drain hose loop behind the cabinet. A crimp where the hose passes through the cabinet wall is common after a remodel. A dead drain pump gets replaced and the path tested through a full cycle.
E15 means the float in the base has lifted: water is where it should not be. Suspects: a door seal weeping at the corners, a cracked sump, a leaking heat pump housing, a spray arm throwing water down the tub wall. We pull the kick panel, dry the pan, run the machine and watch. Tipping it to empty the pan without finding the leak invites the code back.
The wash runs quietly but the water never warms and everything comes out cool and dripping. On Bosch the heat pump element and the pump share a housing, and scale from well water shortens the element's life. We meter the element and the NTC sensor, check the control's heater relay, and replace the heat pump assembly when it has failed, then discuss softener settings if scale was the culprit.
Bosch dries by condensation, not a fan and heater, so an empty rinse-aid reservoir or plastic on the top rack produces wet loads on a healthy dishwasher. When rinse aid is full and the load sensible, a failed drying fan on the 800 series, a stuck dispenser, or a final rinse short of temperature is the real fault. We measure the last rinse and test the dispenser before blaming habits.
The door drops like a trapdoor instead of easing down, or the latch will not hold. Bosch door balance relies on a pair of springs and cords that fray, and the latch has a microswitch that wears. We replace springs and cords as a pair, set the tension for a panel-ready door with a heavy custom front, and fit a new latch when the switch has failed.
The display flickers, buttons stop responding, the cycle time counts down and then jumps back, or the machine simply will not wake. Bosch controls live in the door and suffer from steam and water running down the inner panel. We check the seal above the control, test the module's inputs and outputs, and replace it only when it has genuinely failed rather than when a bad sensor is starving it.
| Code | What it usually means | What we do |
|---|---|---|
| E24 | The dishwasher could not drain. In most cases the filter, impeller cover, check valve or a kinked hose; sometimes the pump. | Clear and inspect the whole drain path, then test the pump and change it if it is dead. |
| E15 | Water has collected in the base pan and lifted the float, which stops the machine as a leak safeguard. | Dry the pan, find the leak with the machine running, and repair the seal, sump or housing responsible. |
| E09 | The heating circuit is not working, usually the heat pump element or its sensor. | Meter the element and NTC, check the control relay, and replace the heat pump assembly when confirmed. |
| E22 | The filter is blocked or residual water is being detected in the sump after draining. | Clean the filter and sump, check the drain pump for debris, and confirm complete draining through a cycle. |
The diagnostic on a Bosch dishwasher is $99. It puts a technician and a meter in front of the machine, gets the failed part identified in ordinary language, and produces a repair figure written on the ticket before anything is ordered. Say go and the $99 is already counted within that figure; say stop and $99 is the whole visit. Travel anywhere in the ring we cover out from the Olympia–Lacey line is never itemized. If Bosch still covers your machine we bring that up before anything else.
Dishwashers are scheduled inside the week, weekdays and Saturday morning. Common Bosch pumps and latches ride with us; a control module may need ordering, and the follow-up is booked by us at no charge. The printed warranty term is on every invoice, and downtown building managers can okay work by text and have the invoice emailed.
Often, yes. Remove the lower rack, twist out the filter basket and clean it, then lift the small impeller cover beneath and clear any glass or pits. Make sure the drain hose behind the machine is not pinched. Run a rinse cycle. If E24 returns with a clean filter and a clear hose, the check valve or the drain pump has failed, and that is our job.
Because water found its way to the float in the base pan, sometimes from a door seal that dripped while the machine was pulled out, sometimes from a real leak. Bosch stops everything until the pan is dry. We locate where the water came from rather than just tipping the machine, because a leaking sump or heat pump housing will trip the float again on the next load.
Not necessarily. Bosch dries by condensation, so rinse aid is not optional; an empty reservoir gives wet dishes on a perfect machine. Plastics on the top rack stay wet regardless. If rinse aid is full and glassware still comes out dripping, the final rinse temperature or the drying fan on 800 series models is worth testing, and that is when to call us.
It does, on Cooper Point, at Summit Lake and anywhere else on a private well. Hardness scales the heat pump element and shortens its life, iron stains the tub and racks, and grit lodges in the inlet valve. Set the built-in softener to your actual hardness, keep the salt reservoir full on models that have one, and use a rinse aid rated for hard water.
Usually. The tubs are stainless, the racks last, and the parts most likely to fail, the drain pump, heat pump, latch and door springs, are all reasonable. A control module on an older 800 series is the one repair where we pause and look at the whole machine with you. We will give you an honest read before you decide.
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The price goes on paper before a screw comes out.
Ring or use the form; a phone photo of the display or the model sticker saves a step. We ring back with an arrival window and text again as the van pulls off Woodland Square Loop.
The technician tests the suspect part with instruments, tells you in plain words what gave out, and writes the repair down as a single price. Your $99 is already inside that number.
Fill valves, defrost heaters, igniters, drum rollers, drain pumps, relays — the things well water, salt air and PSE outages wear out on this shore of the inlet. If we have to order something, the second trip is ours to make, not yours to pay for.
You watch the machine finish a whole cycle, the kick panels and the floor go back the way they were, and the warranty term is typed onto the invoice.
Tell us over the phone. For $99 a technician tests the machine and writes the repair down as one price with that $99 folded in, and the invoice carries the warranty term in print.
