Short answer

F23 or F22 on a Bravos or Centennial Maytag dryer means the exhaust thermistor on the blower housing reads shorted or open, so the control is blind to exhaust heat. Older Dependable Care dryers show no code: a rear screech is a dry drum bearing, a front scrape worn glides. We meter the sensor, inspect the harness and check the vent, since restricted exhaust cooks it. Calls go to (360) 564-6074, Mon–Sat 8 AM–7 PM.

Maytag · Dryers · Olympia

Maytag dryers across the generations

Samsung front-load dryer with the door open after a heating element replacement
Maytag dryer · Olympia

A Maytag dryer from the 1990s is a different machine from one built after Whirlpool took over the name. The older dryers, the Dependable Care and Performa lines, carry the drum on a rear bearing and a pair of front glides, and they will run for decades if those wear parts are replaced when they start to squeal. The newer Bravos, Centennial and Maxima dryers share their parts with Whirlpool, and their failures are the thermistor, the gas valve coils, the moisture sensor and the electronic control.

We work on both around Olympia, from the Puget Street basements to the stacked laundry closets in condos near Percival Landing, and we tell owners of the old ones plainly whether a part is still made before quoting anything.

Maytag dryer jobs, old and new

Rear bearing and front glides on the older Maytags

A metallic screech from the back of an older Maytag, or a scrape from the front, means the drum bearing or glides have worn to metal. On Dependable Care dryers the rear bearing is a ball-and-socket that dries out; the front glides are plastic strips. We replace bearing, glides and belt in one visit, since the cabinet is open anyway, and the dryer goes quiet for another decade.

F23 and thermistor faults on Bravos and Centennial dryers

The electronic Maytags stop with F23 or F22 when the exhaust thermistor reads shorted or open, leaving the control blind to exhaust heat. The sensor lives on the blower housing and fails from heat cycling, though a harness pinched during a move produces the same code. We meter it, inspect the harness, fit a new sensor, then check the vent, because a restricted exhaust cooks that sensor faster.

Gas burner that lights briefly on propane or natural gas

The burner ignites, warms the drum briefly, and goes out, leaving loads damp. On the Whirlpool-platform Maytags the valve coils are losing their grip as they warm. On propane installations toward Black Lake and Griffin we also find burners never converted from natural gas, with a yellow, lifting flame and soot on the burner tube. We renew the coils as a set and correct the orifice when it is wrong.

Heats but never gets the clothes dry

The air off the dryer is hot and the load is still damp after ninety minutes. Nine times out of ten the exhaust is at fault: forty feet of vent under a deck, a hood flap glued shut with lint, a crushed transition duct. We check flow at the hood, clear what we can reach, inspect the blower wheel, and say plainly whether the run needs a full cleaning.

Moisture sensor and the auto-dry that quits early

The dryer shuts off after ten minutes with wet clothes, or runs on long after they are dry. Fabric-softener film on the pair of sensor strips inside the drum makes them report dry too early, or a failed harness makes them report wet indefinitely. We scrub and test the strips, trace the wiring through the front panel, and fit a new sensor when the old one is gone.

Control board dead after a windstorm

Power returned after the November blow and the Maytag did not, or it shows PF and will not start, or the drum runs while the panel ignores you. On electric models we confirm the full 240 volts is arriving, since a missing leg turns the drum without heat. Then we test the control's relays and the user interface, swapping the board only when it has truly failed.

Maytag dryer codes on the electronic models

CodeWhat it usually meansWhat we do
PFPower failure: the dryer lost supply mid-cycle and is telling you the load may not be finished.Clear the message and restart; if it recurs without an outage, check the outlet, cord and terminal block.
F23 / F22The exhaust thermistor reads shorted (F23) or open (F22), and the control loses track of exhaust temperature.Meter the thermistor and harness, fit a new sensor, and check the vent for the restriction that overheated it.
F28 / F29In most cases the moisture sensor circuit is open or shorted, leaving auto-dry unable to judge the load.Scrub and test the sensor strips, inspect the harness through the front panel, and replace the sensor when faulty.
F70The main control and the user interface have lost communication, often at a connector after a power event.Reseat and inspect the connectors, then test both boards and replace only the one that has failed.

How the Maytag dryer visit goes

  • Identify the generation and read any stored codes on electronic models
  • Confirm full supply voltage at the cord and terminal block on electric dryers
  • Open the cabinet and inspect bearing, glides or rollers, belt, idler and blower
  • Meter thermistor, fuse, heater or valve coils, and the moisture strips
  • Give you the part by name and a repair figure in writing, then let you decide

The fee and the calendar

A Maytag dryer diagnostic carries a visit fee, which we tell you on the phone when you book, and it buys a technician and meter at the dryer, the failed part identified without hedging, and a repair figure written on your ticket before anything is ordered. Go ahead and the quoted figure already contains the visit fee; stop there and that fee is everything you owe, with the finding still yours. Inside our ring around West Olympia there is no line for travel. If Maytag's own coverage still reaches your machine we point that out before proceeding.

Dryers are booked inside the week. Thermistors, coils, belts and glide kits ride with us; a board or a rear bearing for an older model may need ordering, and the trip to fit it costs you nothing more. Your invoice carries the printed warranty term, and rental owners can okay the work by phone or email and have the invoice emailed.

If your Maytag dryer is screeching, stopping on F23 or leaving the towels damp, one diagnostic visit pins down the part and looks at the vent too. Tell us how old it is when you book, and we will quote the visit fee and bring the right parts. Book a diagnostic →

Maytag dryer questions

Can you still get parts for a Maytag dryer from the 1990s?

For most of the Dependable Care and Performa models, yes. Belts, rear bearings, glides, thermal fuses, elements and gas valve coils are all still made. Control timers are the one part that has become scarce on some models, and we check availability before quoting. A thirty-year-old Maytag with a sound drum and motor is usually worth keeping alive.

What does F23 mean on my Maytag Bravos dryer?

In most cases F23 means the exhaust thermistor is reading shorted, and its companion F22 means open. The thermistor is the sensor that tells the control how hot the air leaving the drum is. Without it the dryer cannot regulate heat and stops. It is a modest part, but a restricted vent is often why it failed, so we check airflow too.

Why does my Maytag gas dryer stop heating after a few minutes?

The valve coils are the usual reason on the newer Maytags. They open the valve when the igniter glows and the flame sensor proves the burner is ready, and as they age they weaken with heat and let the valve close after a few minutes. Replacing both coils together fixes it. A weak igniter or dirty flame sensor is the less common cause.

Is my Maytag dryer set up for propane?

Houses on Steamboat Island, at Summit Lake, along Delphi Road and around much of Black Lake run on propane, and a dryer there should have a conversion orifice fitted. Left on the natural-gas orifice it burns with a tall yellow flame, soots the burner, and dries poorly. Orifice and flame get checked on every propane dryer we open.

My Maytag runs a full cycle and the clothes are still damp. Dryer or vent?

Usually the vent, especially in Olympia, where dryer ducts run long under decks and through crawlspaces and stay damp half the year. If the air at the outside hood is weak or the flap barely lifts, the duct is restricted. We check flow during the diagnostic and name the culprit rather than sell a part the dryer does not need.

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